Reflections from Relais & Châteaux Vice President and French Chef Olivier Roellinger
Committing to Conserving the “Pantry of Humanity”
Photo: Maisons de Bricourt
"The sea is the pantry of humanity. We forget that it is fragile and not an inexhaustible resource."—Olivier Roellinger
French chef Olivier Roellinger is a 2011 recipient of SeaWeb’s Seafood Champion Award. The annual Seafood Champion Awards are presented to those who have made significant strides in improving practices and awareness of sustainable seafood. SeaWeb's Seafood Choices established the award in 2006 to honor those in the seafood industry whose past or present contributions demonstrate a commitment to innovation that leads to change.
In 2008, Roellinger opened the now-acclaimed restaurant Le Coquillage (The Shellfish), located in the castle Château Richeux on the north coast of Brittany, France. In November 2009, Roellinger became Vice President of the Relais & Châteaux association. Relais & Châteaux is an exclusive collection of nearly 500 of fine hotels and gourmet restaurants in 60 countries. Established in France in 1954, the association's mission is to spread its unique art de vivre across the globe by selecting outstanding properties with truly unique character. The Relais & Châteaux signature slogan reflects this ambition: "All around the world, unique in the world."
Roellinger recently talked about the role Relais & Châteaux is playing in conserving the resources of our ocean:
"The sea is the pantry of humanity. We forget that it is fragile and not an inexhaustible resource.
On November 17, 2009, during our conference organized in Biarritz, members of Relais & Châteaux approved six commitments for the sustainable supply of marine products. We appealed to all of our colleagues throughout the world to recognize the major role that we all can play in the preservation of resources, as key advisors on the choice of species that we buy, prepare and serve. Chefs are responsible, sensitive people who must act as driving forces with the wider public.
Therefore, since January 1, 2010, we are committed to removing bluefin tuna (Thunnus thynnus) from menus of restaurants that are members of Relais & Châteaux. This species is endangered; action must be taken immediately. We must be the first to sound the alarm. Being aware of the impending extinction of Atlantic bluefin tuna is very important, but we must also be vigilant with regard to all endangered species.
We have the power to choose the products that we order from suppliers and propose to our clients. If a species is endangered, why not use another whose stock is not limited? All of the fish in the sea are delicious! We need to diversify the species that we use. Wherever we are on the planet, it is important that we know which species are endangered, the fishing zones and techniques, as well as the size of species at sexual maturity. We have a shared responsibility. Let us be responsible, united and committed.”
View Roellinger talking about Relais & Châteaux and the responsibility all chefs have to conserving our planet.
A native of Cancale in Brittany, Olivier Roellinger has always been different than other chefs. With a degree in engineering, he began cooking at the age of 24. At the Maisons de Bricourt, which opened in 1982, Olivier Roellinger landed his first Michelin star in 1984, a second in 1988 and a third, the most coveted, in 2006. In 2008, he decided to give up these three stars and ever since, he has devoted himself to his seafood bistro Le Coquillage, which is nestled in the Château Richeux above the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and which received its first Michelin star in 2010. Since November 2009, he is also Vice President of the Relais & Châteaux Association.